Jan. 4, 2009
BY TOM SIETSEMA | Food Critic
Yes, I loved eating in Dijon, France. But my recent trip to the capital of Burgundy was enhanced by where I stayed between meals, in a smart apartment in a 16th-century building owned by an Air France pilot and his painter wife, Guilhem and Françoise Perrichet. For 125 euros (about $177) a night for two, we reveled in the couple’s good taste and attention to detail: a computer in the arty living room, a private garden off the fully stocked modern kitchen, parking in the enclosed courtyard.
LES HALLES DE DIJON
(At Rue Bannelier)
Does it look familiar? Native son Gustave Eiffel (1832-1923) designed Dijon’s sumptuous steel-and-glass food market, conveniently located in the heart of the city. I scored a coup with my guide, local food scribe Alex Miles, whose favorite stalls quickly became mine as well. For cheese, there’s no finer selection than at Au Gas Normand, watched over by Sophie Greenbaum, whose treasures run to Comté and Epoisses and can be vacuum-packed for the trip home. And if you wish to make a sandwich of her specialties, make a beeline for D’un Pain a l’Autre (“From One Bread to Another”), where baker Fred Mougel displays dozens of organic breads. Visit early. By day’s end, Miles reports, “there’s not a crumb left.”